Kashmir Great Lakes Trek

Basic details for the day: Starting from the base camp of Sonmarg (Shitkadi) to Nichnai, approximately 12 km away, is roughly 7 hours of time consumption. At the beginning of this trek, your elevation will be at 8,500 ft. and at the completion of this trek you will gain 3,000 total feet of altitude to get to 11,500 ft (there are three elevation points: 8,500 ft, 11,000 ft-Shekdur and 11,500 ft Nichnai). The majority of the trail will be at least an uphill trek with wooded and open terrain with some areas being very hilly.

Trail Description and Terrain Insights: You will start your journey with an easier/moderate ascent from the base camp. In the beginning, you will have a pretty well-defined trail through a forest consisting of numerous Maple and Pine Trees. The ground conditions for the first part of the trek (approximately the first 3-4km) will be earthy and may be a little slippery, especially if it has rained. After approximately three hours of trek you will arrive at an open meadow area consisting of rolling hills at Shekdur. After leaving Shekdur, you will descend going downhill slightly and then continue your trek for an extended period of time prior to arriving at Nichnai. The last section of your trek (approximately at the end of your trek) follows the right side of the river (stream) Nichani and the terrain is rocky and rugged/hilly.

Natural and Scenic Highlights: On this day, you will see several of the best views of the trek. The first view is when you look back at the valley below from your high point on the ascent and see the complexity of the valley as well as the Thajiwas Glacier glistening in the distance. As you reach Shekdur, you will see how the vegetation drastically changes to the Bhoj Patra (Silver Birch) trees with their paper thin bark. The Nichnai valley is well framed by the steep, jagged peaks on each side, and the view of the turquoise stream winding its way through the meadow shows a classic view of the Himalayas.

Cultural and Local Touchpoints: Throughout the ascent, you will pass by several Gujjar and Bakarwal huts (mud-and-stone shelters). You may also see shepherds moving their large herds of sheep and goats through the grassy meadows of Shekdur. This is a wonderful opportunity to see the nomadic lifestyle first hand, which was present at the start of your trek, and continues throughout this trek. At the start of the trek, you will pass by an Army Check Post, where you will have your permits and ID checked; this post reminds you of the strategic and remote location of this region of very high altitude.

Safety and Acclimatization Guidelines: As you prepare for your ascent above 11,000 feet today you'll have an increased risk of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) due to the altitude. The golden rule for today is to maintain a continuous rhythm as you ascend and avoid sprinting up. Keep your breathing constant; do not allow yourself to become out of sync with your steps. Carry a minimum of 2 liters of water and drink often to remain hydrated. If you experience a pounding headache or nauseous feelings, contact your trek leader right away. After reaching the campsite in constant motion by walking around camp rather than lying down right away.

Experience Notes by our trekkers who completed this trek: The first hour of the trek was the toughest on my lungs but my view of Sonmarg from the top made me forget how hard I struggled to get there. We made it to Shekdur just in time for lunch and the shade provided by the birch trees was so refreshing. For the last two hours, the rocky surface made the journey feel like forever, but upon arriving at the Nichnai campsite, nestled amongst the mountain, made it all worth it.

Camp Information & Logistics: Nichnai Camping Area located in an expansive U shaped valley at an elevation of (11,500 ft), is much more of a rocky and windy site than Sonmarg, therefore make certain your tents are securely pegged. Not far from Nichani camping area, the Nichnai Stream provides a source of fresh water. Logistics will be delivered by the cooking crew, but trekkers should understand that, as soon as the sun sets, there can be a dramatic drop off in temperature at this location. You will not be able to use your cell phone anywhere in this area; therefore, your first night here marks the beginning of a digital detox.

Practical tips for trekkers: Bring a wind jacket or fleece in your daily backpack because of the U Shaped valley in which Nichnai is located and the wind flow through the valley will cause rapid temperature drops. Use two trekking poles to help stabilize the descent through the mud on the forested slopes and aid in protecting the knees, and make certain your boots are laced tightly to avoid jamming of toes during descents, get your last snack/battery installment at tea hut by starting out, prior to leaving for Nichnai.

Basic details for the day: On this trek day, which lasts about 7 - 9 hours, you will cover about 12-13 km of trail that's called high endurance. You'll trek (starting at Nichnai Camp 11,500 ft) and back down to Vishansar Lake (12,000 ft) after ascending relatively high to the Nichnai Pass at 13,500 ft. Because the day is built on an extreme & prolonged, you will acclimatize long term very well.

Trail Description and Terrain Insights: From the time you leave Nichnai Camp, you have a short 1.5 hour warm-up next to the Nichnai stream until you reach the base of the pass. From there you'll be trekking to the Nichnai Pass on an extremely steep, zigzagging uphill (approx. 1,200 ft.) consisting of loose scree, boulders, narrow dirt paths. The switchbacks of the trek demand that you maintain a consistent pace. After reaching the top of the pass, the terrain quickly becomes rolling, wide open meadowland. The descent after leaving the pass will be quite long (about 1,500 ft.) but relatively gradual and all along a well-established trail that runs through vast open grasslands. Plan on encountering several naturally occurring wet areas nearing the lake basin, as these areas have been saturated by melting snow.

Natural and Scenic Highlights: Today marks your arrival at one of the most iconic places in India - the transition from the rugged and rocky Nichnai Valley to the vast expanse of lush green meadows below with jagged snowcapped mountains towering over them. Here, in this beautiful wilderness, you will see some of the most beautiful wildflowers in India, including multiple varieties of Kashmiri wildflower, Himalayan Blue Poppies and Iris, to name just a few. A truly breathtaking sight awaits when you see Vishansar Lake for the first time; a large pristine alpine lake backed by the famous Four Peaks Glacier. The colour of the lake changes from bright aquamarine to deep royal blue depending on your position in relation to the sun.

Cultural and Local Touchpoints: You will see cairns, or piles of stones, that trekkers and local shepherds have stacked as offerings to the mountain spirits for safe passage through the mountains. You will also be able to see local people and fellow trekkers fishing for trout (with a permit) in the lakes of Vishansar and Kishansar, as these lakes have been historically photographed as sites of trout fishing since the British era and have been stocked with brown and rainbow trout.

Safety and Acclimatization Guidelines: The 13,000 ft. mark is where your lungs are starting to test themselves most; therefore, during the ascent (uphill), it is important to carry out the Pressure Breathing Technique (inhaling through the nose and forcefully exhaling through pursed lips) to sustain proper oxygen saturation levels while trekking steeply. Don’t stop for a long time once you have reached the top of the pass, as the wind chill may predispose you to develop hypothermia or rapidly cool down your muscles); and remain vigilant for signs/symptoms of AMS, such as a persistent dull headache and having an appetite). In addition, dehydration can be a significant risk factor, therefore be sure to replace electrolytes lost during this uphill by consuming fluids with added electrolytes.

Experience Notes by our trekkers who completed this trek: Most trekkers have stated that reaching the Nichnai Pass from 300 meters up is a mental game; as every 10 steps seem like an accomplishment to reach the final destination (Nichnai Pass). One highlight of the trek is hearing the collective gasp from the entire group upon reaching the top of the Nichnai Pass, and seeing the hidden valley below. Many trekkers wished they had brought an extra power bank for the day; as the number of photos taken at the Nichnai Pass and along the lakeshore tend to deplete phone battery life long before the group arrives at the campsite.

Camp Information & Logistics: The Vishansar Campsite, located in an open and breezy meadow, is about one kilometer from the lake's shoreline to protect the lake's environment. Because the ground at this site will be moist, you will need to have good waterproof ground sheets. The logistics of your trek will be carried out by a pony trail that will normally pass you while you are trekking downhill. This is a cold campsite; due to the lake's proximity as well as the glaciers that surround us, even in the summer months, once the sun has gone down, the temperature can drop to near freezing levels.

Practical tips for trekkers: Eat a high-carbohydrate breakfast prior to beginning the physically demanding uphill trek to prevent you from getting bonked (running out of energy). If you have any problems with your knees, put on a knee brace before beginning the long, downward descent from the pass. Fill all your water bottles at the Nichnai Stream, because there are no other reliable sources of water till we reach the valley floor. Lastly, prepare to wear gaiters on your boots early in the season so that snow and mud do not seep into your boots.

Day 4 of the trek is known as a Buffer/Reserve Day. If we reserve this day prior to arriving at Vishansar Lake (3,650 m), our trek leader will use the weather and safety data available on the specific date to make a decision on the fitness of the team and whether to use a Buffer Day. If we choose to utilise a Buffer / Reserve Day, we will go for a 2 - 2.5 hour acclimatisation trek to Kishansar Lake where we will carry out the climb high, sleep low procedure in preparation for the Gadsar Pass. Trekup India assumes liability for the cost of the Buffer Day as outlined in the itinerary and no refunds or credits will be given if the day is not used. Once we have crossed the Gadsar Pass no further Buffer Day will be used in the trek itinerary, thus giving us the last opportunity to adjust to altitude before we reach the highest point of the trek.

Note- The use of an acclimatization day can be adjusted according to the weather conditions. If the weather is good, we may not be able to stop for our acclimatization day. We will continue to trek to the next Gadsar campsite.

Basic details for the day: This is a challenging, 14 kilometer trek with a duration of eight to ten hours. The trek begins at Vishansar, continues an ascent past Kishansar Lake and through the Gadsar Pass, and descends very steeply to Gadsar. After ascending a total of 535 m on this day, you then descend a total of 835 m from Gadsar Pass to the Gadsar campsite.

Trail Description and Terrain Insights: The trail begins with an easy, steady uphill of 45 minutes from Vishansar to the shore of Kishansar Lake. The next stage requires approximately two hours of extremely steep and zigzagging uphill through loose scree and narrow ridgelines to the Gadsar Pass. The descent from the Gadsar Pass is extremely steep with numerous snow patches (during certain times of year) and very rocky gullies. After completing the extremely steep ascent and descent to the valley floor, the trail levels into very long and gently rolling meadows leading to the Gadsar campsite.

Natural and Scenic Highlights: Gadsar Pass's view is the ultimate defining moment of the Kashmir Great Lakes trek; when you look back at it, the twin lakes of Vishansar and Kishansar are both clearly visible and in one view, a beautiful blue colour and heart shaped.On the other side of the pass, there is Valley of Flowers with the beautiful and pure turquoise Gadsar Lake (also known as The Lake of Flowers) which is often filled with floating icebergs. The meadows in this area are filled with rare alpine flora that has not been destroyed by any grazing.

Cultural and Local Touchpoints: In local folklore Gadsar is also often called the Yemsar or Lake of Death and is surrounded by monsters of the lake myths. As the area is extremely close to the Line of Control, you will cross a significant Indian Army Check Post. At this location, trekkers are required to show their original identification and have it verified. A common way to experience cultural exchange, and having a cup of tea with the soldiers serving at this remote border, can be a very humbling experience.

Safety and Acclimatization Guidelines: The height of Gadsar Pass is approximately 13,750 feet. At this elevation, there is little or no oxygen present so maintain a slow and steady mountain step as you ascend to the top. Because there is a very steep, long descent on this (The Gadsar Pass) trail, I recommend using a set of trekking poles to prevent your knees from knocking together with the stress of a downhill trek. Be aware of the potential for low mood (called Gadsar Blues) related to extreme fatigue; therefore, continue to consume electrolytes and hydrate while on the descent. Lightning and high winds can occur in high altitudes when bad weather rolls in, so if there are changes in weather, descend immediately.

Experience Notes by our trekkers who completed this trek: Most trekkers reported that their experience ascending to Gadsar Pass was typically the ultimate mind over matter moment for them. In addition, many trekkers commented that even though the ascent was taxing, the descent was actually more taxing on their bodies than the ascent due to the continual pressure being applied to their toes and knees. Trekkers arriving at Gadsar Base Camp (which is located in a narrow, very lush valley) typically describe their entrance as feeling like they entered into a hidden paradise, as compared to the more frequently used base camps from previous days.

Camp Information & Logistics: Gadsar campsite is a beautiful valley full of greenery at 11,000 feet altitude above sea level. This campsite is a lot warmer than Vishansar but is also the most remote of all campsites. Due to the camp being close to the border, logistics are limited, and typically tents are pitched near to an army camp for security purposes. There will be no mobile coverage, and the water from the stream next to this camp is extremely cold and clean.

Practical tips for trekkers: It is advised that you eat a protein rich breakfast and take some quick-fire snacks, such as energy gels, with you for the final ascent to the Summit of Gadsar Pass. It is also important to protect your knees by tightening your knee caps and using a set of trekking poles during your descent to minimize inflammation of your knees. It is also important to have your original ID easily accessible in your daypack to provide to army personnel at the mandatory military check point.

Basic details for the day: This trek is considered a moderate trek of approx. 9 kilometres long. This trek will take approximately 5 - 6 hours, trekking from Gadsar (11,000 ft) and ascending to the Satsar plateau at an elevation of 1,000 ft (12,000 ft). Therefore this day should be easier than that of trekking Gadsar Pass, enabling recovery for the muscles whilst continuing to altitude.

Trail Description and Terrain Insights: This section of trail is a steep, 1.5-hour uphill from the Gadsar valley to the level, flat, high altitude lateral moraine. The distinct feature for today's trek is the boulder-hopping portion of the trail: You will have to find your way through a large area with many large rocks and stones. This will require you to work on your balance and focus. Following the boulders the trail becomes level and develops into a series of rolling fields (meadows) that lead to the first of 7 Satsar lakes.

Natural and Scenic Highlights: At the end of your trek you will arrive at the Satsar Lakes: seven Alpine Lakes (some of which may be dry depending on seasonal conditions). The first lake will be the largest and most impressive as it will reflect the surrounding ridges. The landscape in this area is stark and rugged compared to the lush Gadsar valley, making it appear more moon-like than that of an alpine environment. The views of Naga Parbat (the 9th highest peak in the world) can be spectacular on a clear day.

Cultural and Local Touchpoints: The Satsar area is a summer grazing area for the Gujjars, so you may find their stone huts scattered throughout the area. Close to the campsite is another Indian Army Checkpost, which is close to the LoC and will have the soldiers watching closely as you will have to show your ID again before entering the campsite.

Safety and Acclimatization Guidelines: The biggest safety concern today will be boulder fields. You will twist your ankle on either a small or large rock if you are not careful and deliberate in your step. Do not rush through these rocky sections because, even though you will not gain much elevation today, you will be back to a 12,000 ft. elevation, so you will need to breathe as if you are at 12,000 ft. Drink plenty of water, as the plateau will not have much cover to protect you from the sun beating down on the white rocks.

Experience Notes by our trekkers who completed this trek: Many trekkers reported enjoying boulder hopping at the Satsar Seven Lakes. Many trekkers found that hopping on boulders was like playing a giant hopscotch game, except for the fact that it will cause you to have sore calves. Many trekkers found it difficult to locate the Seven Lakes because each of the Seven Lakes is at a different elevation/level on the mountain. Many trekkers had a wonderful day today because it was so easy, so they had time to write in their journal, stretch, or just enjoy the peaceful feeling of being on such a high plateau.

Camp Information & Logistics: Located in a remote, rugged meadow surrounded by steep mountain ranges is Satsar camping ground, where the deepest part of the wilderness can be found. There is an ice-cold stream that runs through this area to provide water for cooking and drinking. This area’s uneven terrain is littered with glacial debris, so it is important to search for a level spot to pitch your tent before setting up camp. Due to the rocky landscape, you’ll want to weigh down your tent pegs with large rocks for safety. There is absolutely no mobile phone service or digital reception here.

Practical tips for trekkers: It is advisable for you to tie your boots tight for extra support around your ankles while trekking over the boulder terrain. Trekking poles are recommended as a means of balance; however, if you choose to use them, do not force them into deep rock clefts where they could become lodged inside. Spending time outside in this area of the world also requires high-SPF sunscreen as there is no shade from trees and other structures. Don’t forget to keep your original ID handy for mandatory army verification upon entering Satsar campsite.

Basic details for the day: The climax of the 7th day will be at Zaj Pass, at 13,400 feet above sea level, as well as the last significant physical challenge of the trek to the Kashmir Great Lakes. This trek consists of approximately an 11 km trek and will take 6 - 8 hours of trekking at a fast pace. The primary part of the day is a major descent from the Satsar Plateau (12,000 feet) to the Zaj Pass, a total of about 1,900 feet below the Zaj Pass from the Satsar Plateau into the beautiful basin where the two lakes are situated. 

Trail Description and Terrain Insights: You will begin the day at the edge of the Satsar Lake chain trekking leisurely through a mix of meadows and rocky terrain, with some boulder-hopping throughout the entire lake chain. The challenge of the day will be a continuous 2 hour uphill, zigzagging from the Satsar Lake chain to the summit of Zaj Pass. The ascent at Zaj Pass will be very steep and rocky, although a well-defined trail will allow you to test your cardiovascular endurance. Once you reach the summit at Zaj Pass, the terrain will change abruptly from a very knee-breaking descent over loose scree and unstable soil to lush rolling grassland at the lakes.

Natural and Scenic Highlights: Considered by many as the most photographed and iconic view for the entire expedition, the panoramic vista at the summit of Zaj Pass is simply stunning. With a single click of your camera you are presented with both the great expanse of the massive Gangbal Lake and the slightly smaller sister body of water Nandkol Lake – as they shimmer in their varying shades of peacock and turquoise blue. Also evident is the spectacular backdrop of the majestic triple peaks of Mount Harmukh, which is clad in glaciers. This gigantic mountain is your only constant companion on the descent. The meadows in this valley are extremely vibrant, often covered with an abundance of wildflowers and dotted with very large herds of horses grazing.

Cultural and Local Touchpoints: The sacredness and deepness of the Kashmiri Pandit community’s connection to Gangbal Lake cannot be understated; they consider it to be the Haridwar of Kashmir and some venture here each year on a pilgrimage. You will most likely feel a strong sense of reverence and serenity surrounding these waters. This valley is home to the Gujjar and Bakarwal nomadic peoples; you will see larger and more permanent summer settlements during the peak summer season, which offers you a unique glimpse into their pastoral lifestyle (at altitude) for a good portion of the year.

Safety and Acclimatization Guidelines: Ascending 13,400 feet requires careful, consistent pacing, and when you rush to reach the summit, you can quickly develop extremely dangerous symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). However, on Day 7, the largest safety risk is the steep descent from Zaj Pass. This section can be very slick and dangerous in areas if the soil is too dry and loose from the sun. To help protect your knees and to avoid falling out of control while going down the steepest parts of this trail, it's suggested that trekkers transition to a sideways stepping method. Also, be aware of high hydration levels, even though the air is cool at this altitude, because the sun's intense reflection off the lakes will dehydrate or cause fatigue if trekkers aren’t mindful of drinking often enough.

Experience Notes by our trekkers who completed this trek: Trekkers have described the point at which they reach the summit of Zaj Pass to be a moment filled with pure, unadulterated magic. Many trekkers report being left speechless by both the immense size of the Harmukh glacier before them and the twin lakes located beneath it. Many of the notes from the trail discuss how even though descending from Zaj Pass can be quite physically abusive on toes and joints, the satisfaction of being able to camp directly along the water's edge of Nandkol Lake and see the Harmukh glacier reflect off the water at sunset makes every effort to get there feel well worth it.

Camp Information & Logistics: The campsite normally rests on the lush, grassy shores of Nandkol Lake, located right at the foot of the Harmukh mountain range. Because the campsite is so appealing and conveniently located next to the Naranag road, this tends to be a heavily used and social campsite on the trail. Overall, this campsite has excellent logistical support as water is available from the clean and clear glacial streams flowing into the lake. When it's warm and clear during the day, in the valley at night, it frequently gets very cold but provides sufficient shelter from the strong and chilling winds that are frequently present at two of the higher passes, Nichnai and Satsar. 

Practical tips for trekkers: Proactive joint care will be essential for the large (1,900 ft.) downward descent on Day 7; therefore, early use of knee braces or crepe bandages should help avoid major damage from the force of the landing. You should reach Zaj Pass for optimal lighting on Twin Lakes, sometime between 11:00 A.M. and 1:00 P.M. If you want to improve your trekking poles' stability, adjust their lengths accordingly; on your downhill, shorter; on your descent, much longer. While trekking from Satsar to the valley floor, you will need to carry at least 2.5 litres of water because you won't find any reliable refill sites between the two points.

Basic details for the day: Day 8 marks the concluding and the most physically demanding descent in the entire expedition with a total trekking distance of 15 km requiring roughly 7 hours of trekking. Starting at the peaceful Gangabal Twin Lakes (elevation 11,500 ft.), you will experience an astounding 4,000 ft elevation drop to the road access level at Naranag (elevation 7,500 ft.) before concluding your trek journey with approximately 70 km of drive, requiring approximately 3 hours, back to the familiar comforts of Srinagar, elevation 5,200 ft.

Route Description and Terrain Insights: The first part of the trail will be through the green meadows of the Gangabal Basin before entering densely wooded Buthpathri Pine Forest. The next section of the trail will quickly turn into a continuous, sharp, zig-zagging steep descent along a heavily drived dry trail that frequently contains nomadic animals. The last 4 kms will include extremely challenging knee-jarring descents through dense forest canopy until eventually you will arrive at the ancient stone temples at Naranag.

Natural and Scenic Highlights: Mount Harmukh can be viewed in the early morning light, when the twin lakes waters are still. As you descend from the heights, you will notice the stark contrast between the rugged and barren peaks of the mountains and the lush green of the tall conifers below. The end of your trek will be reached at the Temple Complex at Naranag, an archaeological site dedicated to Lord Shiva, which dates back to the eighth century; a stunningly preserved and historic portal back into civilization.

Cultural and Local Touchpoints: As you pass through the Guinness World Record for altitude attempts to complete this forested trek, you will see various settlements of Gujjar families living along the banks of the many rivers and streams you will cross. When you reach Naranag or the Temple Complex at the end of your trek, the tranquil mountains will have been replaced with the energy of the local tea stalls, and you will have completed your trek journey through the highlands of Kashmir both physically and emotionally.

Safety and Acclimatization Guidelines: The main concern will be how to control the drop of 4,000 ft., which can lead to considerable toe-bang as well as knee strain if you do not manage this descent correctly. Be aware that as you descend rapidly the air gets warmer and thicker, so drink enough water to keep hydrated. Expect to fill up your thermoflask many times with water from the numerous streams that you will find along your route to the final vertical kilometres & pace yourself so that you do not get too fatigued physically before completing the last kilometre.

Experience Notes by our trekkers who completed this trek: Most trekkers describe the last section through the forest as a true test of their mental endurance, as the slope can feel relentless. But there is nothing more refreshing than entering into the shade of a huge pine tree after spending the better part of a week under full sun exposure. Reaching Naranag is always a mix of feeling exhausted (physically) as well as very rewarding because of having successfully completed one of India's most beautiful treks.

Camp Information & Logistics: There will be no camping this evening at the end of the trekking at the trailhead in Naranag. After finishing the trek, eating your last meal in the village, and switching from your trekking boots to the gel seat in your vehicle for a 3-hour drive back to Srinagar, you'll probably want to go directly to the houseboat or hotel for a hot shower after spending a week in the mountains.

Practical tips for trekkers: Make sure you have your shoe laced locked at the shortest length possible before you start descending down hill so that your toes don't hit the end of your boot when you run down hill causing your toenails to bruise from the impact (they're nails so they hurt). To reduce the impact on your knees while running down hill over the rocky terrain, use both trekking poles fully extended. Carry some lightweight T-shirts in your backpack so you can put away your warm clothing as the temperature will increase quite quickly as you get closer to Naranag.