Tarsar Marsar Trek

Basic details for the day: Your first day involves trekking approximately 10 km (6.2 miles) in 6 hours, with an elevation gain of approximately 1,200 ft. The 1,200 ft elevation gain from Aru to Lidderwat will be a gradual uphill, so that your lungs can acclimatise to the higher elevation, while trekking through the heart of the Lidder Valley.

Trail Description and Terrain Insights: The first part of the trail begins in Aru Village and ascends the mountain via a gradual zig-zag pattern into the thick cover of Fir and Blue Pine trees above. The trail is mostly a flat, packed earth path covered by pine needles, which sometimes includes rocks at seasonal creek crossings. As you continue through Lidder Valley, it opens up into larger clearings in the valley. The trail mostly stays level for the middle portion, making its way along the curves of the mountain for a rhythmic trekking experience; the only hilly section of the trail is the last short hill to get to the meadowland of Lidderwat.

Natural and Scenic Highlights: The highlight of this trek is the Lidder River, a vibrant blue pool of glacial melt flowing through the gorge below. As you make your way along this stretch of the trail called Dandwal, the forest cover gives way to breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains. Once you reach Lidderwat, you will be stunned at the dramatic change in scenery as the dense forest gives way to a wide, high-altitude plateau filled with fast-flowing streams and surrounded by the majestic snow-covered peaks of the Kolahoi mountains in the distance. 

Cultural and Local Touchpoints: As you make your way along the trail, you’ll also have the opportunity to meet some of the local inhabitants, such as Bakarwal and Gujjar shepherds who move their animals up into the mountains for summer grazing. You will also see their traditional winter homes ("Dhokas") made of mud or stone, many of which have been continuously occupied by the same family for centuries. These encounters offer you a chance to experience the transhumance culture of Kashmir first-hand through encounters with local children and parents tending to their animals on their family's grazing lands. Most shepherds will greet you with the traditional Salaam as you trek through their ancestral grazing lands.

Safety and Acclimatization Guidelines: Today, try to keep your body under control as altitude gain is not very high, but you will begin to feel the weight of your pack at altitude. Remember to maintain a consistent and steady mountain pace (i.e. slow and steady) to reduce the chance of early stage fatigue. Hydration is very important. Although it may feel cool outside, the dry mountain air will dehydrate you extremely fast. You should also listen to your breathing; if you are gasping for breath, then you are going too fast, slowing your stride will help. The first stop at 9,150 ft. Lidderwat will assist your body in adjusting for the more vigorous uphill ascends that are yet to come. Your body will not be tired when you reach Lidderwat.

Experience Notes by our trekkers who completed this trek: Leaving the end of the civilized world in Aru was unforeseen. The forest trails were very cool and smelled like pine needles. When we reached Lidderwat there was a moment of awe. The vastness of the meadow made us feel small. The best moment on my trek was sitting beside the river in camp while the sun went down behind the peaks.

Camp Information & Logistics: The Lidderwat campground stretches out on a grassy plain located where two mountain streams meet. You will be provided with high-end alpine-style tents while you are camped here; however there isn’t any electricity available nor any cellular network service available within this area so most evenings will be spent in the communal dining tent provided by your guide. Your logistical support including food is being handled by the kitchen staff who prepare quality, healthy meals that will provide you with an adequate carbohydrate-protein mix to restore your energy after having trekked 10 km earlier in the day.

Practical tips for trekkers: Since there are several streams located along this route, you should bring with you a thermoflask or a reusable water bottle and fill it at each of the clear, fresh sources your guide points out to you. The areas near the forest can often have very high levels of humidity, so plan to wear layers of clothing so you can remove them if necessary. Make sure to keep your poncho easily accessible at the top of your pack because the weather in the mountains can lead to sudden, short-lived rain showers in the afternoon. Lastly, keep your camera or phone in one of the side pockets of your daypack, as the transition between the forest and meadows occurs quickly which provides excellent opportunities for photography.

Basic details for the day: The ascent today is a moderate one of approximately 5.6 km and generally takes 4.5 to 5 hrs. While it is shorter than yesterday in terms of distance, the altitude gain is quite substantial at an increase of 1,850 ft (550 m), as you exit the sub-alpine forest and enter an alpine meadow zone.

Trail Description and Terrain Insights: The first section of the trail consists of a series of well-defined switchbacks with a moderate to fairly steep incline. These switchbacks begin as they cut through the last remaining clusters of Silver Fir (Abies silveriana) and Birch (Betula spp.) trees. Once you clear the treelike, the trail opens up and is a large expanse of rolling grasslands. The trail narrows and corresponds to the contour of the slope and ranges from soft dirt to sporadic rocky sections. The grade of the trail is consistently up, requiring a steady, rhythmic pace to be able to acclimatize to the decreasing oxygen.

Natural and Scenic Highlights: Today is the day of visual expansion. When you first descend, the Lidder River changes from a rushing waterway into a shimmering silver ribbon far below and out to your left, the lush velvety meadows of Shekwas, with their solid, bright green appearance, come into view. You'll see the location of the Kolahoi massif, a group of jagged peaks, first becoming visible on the horizon to your left as you trek across the grassy plateau.

Cultural and Local Touchpoints: Shekwas, the principal venue for the nomadic Bakarwal, has many permanent summer homes (groups of stone and log huts built into the hillside for shelter from winds) along your path. You will see thousands of sheep and goats being herded up the hillsides. The contact with shepherds here is more personal than in Aru; you may witness them shearing wool or making traditional roti bread over an open flame outside their home.

Safety and Acclimatization Guidelines: Crossing the elevation of 11,000 feet is a critical stage in Altitude Mountain Sickness (AMS) development; you may begin to feel the impact of lower air pressure. It is important to ascend high and sleep low after arriving at your camp, take an acclimatization uphill a small rise before coming back down to your tent. You should take slow, deep breaths and drink two times your regular amounts of water. If you have a headache or feel sick after a long period of time, report your symptoms directly to your trek leader.

Experience Notes by our trekkers who completed this trek: Ascending from Lidderwat was nothing less than a shock to my lungs but once we got to the Shekwas Plateau, all the strenuous exertion disappeared from my body. The grass on the plateau was so lush that I didn't even want to trek on it. We spent the entire evening perched on a ridge gazing at the snow capped Kolahoi peaks shimmering gold in the sunset the first time I began to truly appreciate the size of the Himalayas.

Camp Information & Logistics: The campsite at Shekwas sits on top of a beautiful flowing grassy meadow with incredible views in every direction; however this campsite has no cover and is exposed to all forms of weather with heavy winds being the greatest concern. Tents are set up in a sheltered area located close to a small stream. Logistics become increasingly difficult after leaving Lidderwat as all supplies will now need to be brought in via mules only. You will be provided with a hot, high-calorie meal for your evening meal to assist your body in staying warm through your sleepless cold at high altitude nights.

Practical tips for trekkers: Sun exposure in the meadows indicates that UV rays are very high so use a high-SPF sunscreen (at least 30) and lip balm regardless of how cold it is outside. When you get to camp, expect additional temperature drops after the sun goes down. Therefore, keep your fleece or down jacket in your pack so you can quickly put on a new layer when you arrive at camp. Finally, you are currently in a high grazing area, so whenever you refill your water from a stream, use a filtration device or purification tablets as livestock frequently use the same source of water as you do.

Basic details for the day: Today's route is one of the most visually stunning on the trek - plan on spending 4 to 5 hours to complete this section of the trek. The distance is not very long; however, the day's trek will take you up to 12,000 ft of elevation gain (1,500 ft net gain for the day) as well as across a very wide sea level to the lake basin transition zone. This day was intentionally planned for a shorter (4 to 5 hour) trek length in order to maximize your opportunity for being on the water with the shoreline as soon as you arrive at the lake.

Trail Description and Terrain Insights: The initial segment of this trek is an easy lateral traverse on the rolling Shekway Meadows before beginning to make hopscotch-like boulder hops over the several glacial streams. As you get to the last hour of your trek, the gradient will get much more difficult, as you will be trekking several sets of rocky switchbacks (within your climbing route) before ascending over the final ridge of a natural terminal of a glacier (an ice mass formed by the accumulation of snow and ice). Upon reaching this ridge, the trekking trail will level off dramatically, where you will see the entire basin where Tarsar Lake is located.

Natural and Scenic Highlights: The absolute highlight of the entire trek can be found in the discovery of Tarsar Lake. The final ridge you ascend to view the lake is massive, shaped like an almond and is a brilliant turquoise in colour. The turquoise lake, which reflects the gorgeously jagged and iron-grey mountains of the Kolahoi Massif in the distance, is so clear that it appears to show the beauty of the mountains as if they had been painted on a canvas. The transition from lush green margs to a rugged, high-alpine tundra is visible as you trek to this location because only the hardiest of wildflowers, such as the blue Himalayan poppy, grow in the rocky crevices.

Cultural and Local Touchpoints: At this elevation, the stone huts of the permanent shepherds become less frequent, and in their place you will see the canvas tents of the nomadic Bakarwal community. You will see them moving their sheep, with incredible agility, on these steep screens. This area has a long standing history of local folktales, and the Gujjars of the area believe that Tarsar lake has moods of its own, and thus show great respect for the lake by reverently praying as they trek by the shoreline.

Safety and Acclimatization Guidelines: The high altitude zone (over 12,000 feet) is now being experienced as you approach. Physical activity will feel twice as difficult and your heart will continue to beat quickly. Trekking is required at a turtle pace or very slow, using the rhythm of your breathing deeply in your belly. Once you have arrived at the campground (12,500 feet), resting may seem appealing, but it’s important to be active - trek around the lake to get used to the thinner air before the sun sets.

Experience Notes by our trekkers who completed this trek: We had only ever seen pictures of Tarsar, nothing could prepare us for the sheer size. After reaching the last 200 meters of our ascent the air was hard to draw into my lungs, but as soon as I saw the blue water of Tarsar with my own eyes I forgot how very tired from the trek I was. We were mesmerized sitting around the shore of the lake, collecting rocks and watching the clouds shift the colors of the lake from turquoise to emerald. I feel like we entered a secret place.

Camp Information & Logistics: Here you will find the enormously popular Shoreline Camp which is located on lush grassy banks approximately only a few meters from the edge of Tarsar Lake that is 12,500 ft in elevation. This camp represents a very high exposure campsite that does not have a natural windbreak so expect extreme drops in temperature. The camp has been organized with great care in terms of logistics, and as such, takes significant precautions to ensure that waste does not enter Tarsar Lake. Kitchen tents and toilet tents have been carefully placed in compliance with strict regulations to keep them at a safe distance from the lake to protect the quality of the water in the lake.

Practical tips for trekkers: Watch for wind chill at Tarsar and make sure to have your down jacket or windbreaker easily accessible. Tarsar Lake is cold; swimming in this lake can lead to immediate hypothermia because of the high elevation at which the lake is located. The night sky above Tarsar on this evening has potentially the best photographic opportunities due to the lack of light pollution and the elevation of the camp at 12,500 ft, allowing you the opportunity to see the milky way in all its glory above the Kolahoi peaks.

Basic details for the day: The total distance is 6 kilometers (3.7 miles) and usually takes about 5 hours to complete; you will gain altitude of 1,500 feet while trekking  through the high point of the trek (Tarsar Pass - 13,500 feet) followed by a short descent into Sundersar basin.This is one of the most physically demanding days you will encounter and offers some of the best aerial views of all the days of the trek.

Trail Description and Terrain Insights: Beginning the day, you will have a steep technical uphill from Tarsar Lake, consisting of narrow switchbacks made of loose scree (rocks) and boulders. As you continue to ascend towards Tarsar Pass, the slope becomes steeper, and you will have to carefully place your feet. At the ridge, (Tarsar Pass) you will have an amazing panoramic view of both valleys. From here you will make your way down to Sundersar Lake, where the slope is not as steep, and you will trek through high alpine meadows, as well as cross several small streams fed from glacial runoff, until you reach the level, grassy plains around Sundersar Lake.

Natural and Scenic Highlights: The top Tarsar Pass's viewpoint circuit is the twin-lake viewing. At the highest point of Tarsar Pass, you can look back and see the entire almond-shaped lake (Tarsar) and forward to look down on the small emerald-coloured (Sundersar) lake, at the base of a steep valley. The landscape of this area is starkly alpine, and the beauty of the dense forests has long since vanished and to be replaced by the sharp rugged peaks, permanent snow patches and the Moon-Land climate of the high Pir-Panjal range.

Cultural and Local Touchpoints: This high-altitude pass has been used by nomadic Bakarwal people for centuries as a shortcut between Lidder valley and Sindh valley. There are numerous stone cairns (piles of stones that shepherds use as navigation markers) in this area for navigating your way through the constant mist. At Sundersar, it is very quiet; the only animals you are likely to see in the area are Himalayan Marmots who tend to scurry around their burrows when you arrive and whistle from the rocks to alert their fellow marmots of your presence.

Safety and Acclimatization Guidelines: Crossing 13,500 feet is a test of acclimatization. At this altitude, oxygen levels substantially drop, so make sure to maintain a step and breathe rhythm, taking one breath with every step you take. Strong winds can create dangerous conditions in the pass, so do not linger at the pass for too long before continuing down. If someone in the group is wobbling or appears lethargic, getting out of the pass and down to Sundersar (13,000 feet) should be your priority to breathe easier (oxygen).

Experience Notes by our trekkers who completed this trek: The hardest part of the week for me was ascending to the pass, but once I was standing on the ridge at 13,500 feet, It felt like I was on top of the world the view of Tarsar to one side and the concealed Sundersar to the other side was an adrenaline rush;  For the commencement of the descent into the Sundersar meadow, where we would finally rest, it was as if we were stepping into a beautiful garden with its gentle silence; the meadow was totally unspoiled and left in its original state by nature.

Camp Information & Logistics: The Sundersar campsite is located at an elevation of 3,900m and is expected to be the coldest and highest campsite of your trek. It is located in a small, sheltered meadow on the other side of the lake's outlet from the campsite, and the logistics will be arranged in such a way as to maximise efficiency and comfort in terms of food and equipment. The kitchen team will be serving hot soups and dal-chawal as part of either a high-energy or easily digestible comfort food category, depending on the type of food served. Due to the elevation and cold temperatures, your sleep could be altered from what is typical for you, so do what you can to keep yourself warm inside your sleeping bag.

Practical tips for trekkers: There are no water sources between Tarsar and the Sundersar basin, so you need to be sure to have filled your thermoflask at the Tarsar campsite before you start heading to Sundersar. Also, use your trekking poles to help your knees at both the uphill and downhill sections, and to help you maintain balance on the loose scree at the top of pass. Remember to keep your sunglasses on while you are on this particular trail as the high UV levels and reflection from the rocks / snow patches can cause serious injury from snow blindness or extreme headaches.

Basic details for the day: Today is the longest and most dramatic trek, covering 10 km (6.2 mi) in about 7 hr. It includes a final high-altitude push to Marsar Ridge at 13,500 ft (4,115 m), which will be the highest point on your entire trek, followed by a major descent of 1,600 ft. down to begin leaving the high glacial basins and head toward the greener meadows of Homwas.

Trail Description and Terrain Insights: The day begins with a steep, 30-min ascend from the Sundersar basin to the jagged ridge above Marsar. The terrain itself is rocky, consisting of large boulders and loose scree, requiring you to navigate carefully with your feet. Once the ridge is exposed to view, the trail continues with a long descending traverse through high-altitude margs (meadows) and crosses many glacial stream channels. The final stretch to Homwas is a steep drop through a boulder-filled valley that eventually flattens out onto the lush, green floor of the Lidderwat Valley system.

Natural and Scenic Highlights: The concealed lake of marsar is exceptional in the fact that it is not reached by foot and viewed from above, unlike tarsar; instead, it's viewed from an elevation of 1,000 feet (300 m) from a vertical cliff face with a sheer drop straight down to dark, swirling misty, almond-colored water. One of the most well-known locations in the Himalayas is the cauldron view. As you trek to homwas, the landscape gradually changes from stark grey rock to velvet green geography, while the ever-flowing lidder river moves along with you as a consistent companion.

Cultural and Local Touchpoints: The legend of Marsar is abundant with local myths; according to Kashmiri folklore, this lake is said to be secret and to look upon it for too long is to cause the mists to arise. You will notice gujjars moving their herds down the valley, indicating that you are trekking back to lower grazing areas. You can expect to see stone dhokas once again and you will begin to smell the pines and cedars of the subalpine boundary as you descend into the forest area.

Safety and Acclimatization Guidelines: Early morning is the best time to gain elevation above Marsar (13,500 ft) before clouds develop in the late morning hours. The lengthy drop down to 11,400 ft will be rough on your knees, so please use trekking poles to help absorb shock and avoid getting jelly legs. Although you are dropping in altitude, there is still a risk of becoming dehydrated due to the amount of physical exertion required during the descent and the need for so much mental focus to avoid slipping on rocks at the bottom of the valley.

Experience Notes by our trekkers who completed this trek: Standing on the ridge at Marsar was like looking through a portal to another dimension. Bright sunshine bathed the Sundersar side, while a dark and mysterious blueish-black lake sat submerged in what resembled an oversized stone mixing bowl on the opposite side. As I descended into the valley towards Homwas, my knees were feeling pretty worn out from all that concrete, but then seeing trees at the end of my three-day trek through rock and ice made me feel welcome and comfortable again.

Camp Information & Logistics: The Homwas campsite is a really nice meadow, sheltered and at a high elevation (11,400 ft) which makes it much warmer and has more oxygen compared to Sundersar. This means you'll get a lot better sleep.The Homwas site is also located at the junction of two rivers. Logistics are focused on preparing a celebration meal at the end of the trek since you have done all of the hardest parts of the trek.

Practical tips for trekkers: You will not have access to clean water while ascending the Marsar Ridge and while traversing at high altitude, so make sure to fill up your thermoflask with clean water from the Sundersar campsite before leaving. Wear your windcheater as the wind will be very cold at the height of 13,500 ft, but once at Homwas lower sun drenched meadows you can remove layers if you are too warm. Check your toenails before you start down. You do not want a black toe to clip your toenails before coming down.

Basic details for the day: On your final day of the trek, that consists of a combination of a 6 hour, 7.5-mile (12km) descent, followed by a 3-hour, 103 km drive back to Srinagar. After leaving your morning base camp and arriving at the city, you will have drived 6,200 ft (1890m) down the mountains to the valley floor, so the scenery will change dramatically as you leave the wilderness and return to civilization.

Trail Description and Terrain Insights: The trail will primarily follow the same path as the previous day, although you will be retracing it from a different angle, as you trek down from the river meadow of Lidderwat through the forests of Fir and Pine. The terrain will also transition from soft, alpine grasses to the forest floor covered with fallen pine needles, and then to the dusty rocky trails that lead into Aru Village. Overall, the vast majority of the trail will be downhill, although there will be several sections that are relatively flat, but are very steep and can be quite jarring to your knees.

Natural and Scenic Highlights: This is a visual rewind of the trek before departing the stark high-altitude ridges of the Homwas region and re-entering the lush oxygen-rich tree canopy of the Lidder Valley. The Lidder River is now a wide rushing river, and it will accompany you all the way to Aru. Upon leaving the dense forests and entering the cultivated mustard fields and brightly colored rooftops of Aru village, you will have returned to green civilization after so many days surrounded by grey rocks and turquoise ice.

Cultural and Local Touchpoints: As you pass back through Lidderwat and the shepherd communities, you will see the daily rhythm of the Gujjars; they are milking cattle and preparing for their own inevitable descent as the seasons change. Upon reaching Aru, you will complete your nomadic lifestyle in the nomadic region and will see many of the familiar sights of Kashmiri life on the drive back through Pahalgam and Anantnag; tea shops filled with a buzz, cricket bat manufacturing shops and saffron shops in Pampore.

Safety and Acclimatization Guidelines: Joint impact is currently the most critical safety hazard. A 12-kilometre descent can severely damage the knee and ankle joints; therefore, it is best to maintain a soft-knee trekking style throughout the entire descent and to use trekking poles for every step down. As you descend over a 6,200-foot drop in one day you may feel the effects of reverse altitude - i.e., feeling much heavier or fatigued as you go down because the concentration of oxygen has increased. Maintain proper hydration while driving to Srinagar after your week of strenuous activity, so your body has time to adjust back to normal before leaving for your final destination.

Experience Notes by our trekkers who completed this trek: Trekking into Aru was both exciting and tiring (my legs were worn out). Although I had been at such a high elevation, the air quality at a lower elevation felt significantly thicker and easier to breathe. Upon entering the village and seeing our first store after spending 7 days at an elevation of 2,100 meters, I definitely experienced culture shock. The drive from Aru back to Srinagar was very quiet; each person in the bus seemed to be staring out of the window in disbelief of how far we had just descended in less than 24 hours.

Camp Information & Logistics: You will not be staying at a campsite tonight, as the journey has taken you to Srinagar. After reaching Aru, you will say goodbye to your trekking leads/kitchen and mountaineers. You will have your main bags transferred from the mules to transport vehicles. You will check into your hotel or houseboat in Srinagar, where you finally get the chance for a long-awaited hot shower and stationary bed.

Practical tips for trekkers: The only meal included today is breakfast, so you will need to pack some high-energy foods (nuts/chocolate/energy bars) in your daypack and plan on eating during the 12 km trek. Along the way, you'll experience many tea stalls and restaurants to refresh and fill your water bottle from Pahalgam to Srinagar. Be sure to have access to a set of fresh clothes in your main bag when you arrive at Aru, as you'll want to change out of your trekking clothes before your 3 hour drive into the city.